Chemical applications can harm vegetables | Las Vegas Review Magazine

2021-11-16 20:47:32 By : Ms. wendy wang

The trick to using chemicals such as copper, boron, and chloride is to use them far enough away from the raised bed so that the roots of these vegetables will not be harmed.

Q: Every summer, my raised bed will be infested by the roots of elm trees, which will have harmful effects on summer vegetables. I don't want to hurt the trees, but I want to prevent the roots from entering the 40-foot bed. I tried some mechanical methods to no avail. I think I might put down some copper sulfate, but I haven't found an application rate that suits my purpose.

Answer: There are many substances that are toxic to plants that are not systemic. Copper is one of them, but boron and chloride are also one of them. You will see that their toxicity has caused a small amount of damage to the tree-it may be the discoloration of the leaves on that side. The trick is to apply these chemicals far enough away from the raised bed so that the roots of these vegetables will not be harmed.

A trench is usually dug in the soil 18 inches from the raised bed and about 1 foot deep, which cuts off the roots of the tree, or it can be a place where minerals can be sprinkled. The old-fashioned method is to cut these roots in the same groove about twice a year. These mineral methods such as copper, boron, and chloride are not systemic, but all of them will be absorbed by the tree and transported to the leaves to some extent.

Legally speaking, if there is nothing on the container, I cannot give the rate of applications that perform such operations. However, if I were to use any of these chemicals, I would put a small amount along the ditch, and then add water to the ditch to activate it.

Copper, boron, and chloride are trace elements. These three elements are essential to plants, but they are not poisonous and kill roots. But I warn you that there will be some discoloration in the leaves.

Question: Can you send me the list of roses you have chosen?

A: Because I don't know what color roses you want, fragrant or not, and there are many others that only you can choose, so we can go around and choose roses. It is true that some roses can withstand high temperatures better than others, so it is important to choose rose varieties that can withstand heat well.

I use a database, such as the one found on weekroses.com.

The searchable rose database allows you to find roses that can withstand the high temperatures and low humidity of the desert, whether they are fragrant, whether they are suitable for climbing, and what color they are. There are actually hundreds of roses to choose from, including carpet roses, mixed teas, and floribunda.

If you want roses, please take a moment to understand what they are and how to grow them. I will tell you that our unimproved desert soil is not suitable for roses. Surrounding them with rocks is not a good choice. After making some choices, make a list of 10 or 12 that sounds promising, because the nursery or garden center will not provide all of them.

Q: I plan to plant a row of Green Cloud Texas Rangers to block bad vision. I chose that shrub from your list of private plants. Your article says that plants are separated by one-third of their mature height, but that mature height seems to vary a lot. I want them to grow with minimal trimming, and I want to create a privacy wall. Do you have any suggestions for spacing?

Answer: These plants are not evergreen plants, but they shed their leaves in winter. But when it is watered and fertilized once a year, it is so dense that it creates privacy anyway.

Because these desert plants can grow to about 6 to 8 feet tall when they are fully grown, and you use them as privacy screens, I would not plant them at a distance of about 2.5 to 3 feet and close to fences or anything that will You are separated by approximately the same location privacy issues. Remember that in the desert, water will determine where the roots grow, where the wet soil is, and damage walls, plaster, etc.

Therefore, initially water the containers and the edges of the newly planted soil, and then when they grow larger within a few years, add another emitter for each plant on the side of the hedge and keep the watering time the same. In addition, they should be hedge trimmed to increase privacy.

Or, if they are lined up in a row, you can use a drip tube instead of a dripper for watering. When first planting and aging, the number of minutes will remain the same. What any irrigation will change is the number of times you water each week.

Q: Unfortunately, my gardener fell ill about a month ago. He has been with me for many years. He should prune my Mediterranean fan palm and my two other palm trees. I found another gardener (through the recommendation of a good friend). Can I keep him trimming them, or is the season too late? I will not do anything until I receive your reply.

Answer: The maintenance of Mediterranean fan palm is very simple, and most home gardeners know how to do it. It just involves removing any old leaves and removing any suckers that may appear. Most of the time, Mediterranean fan palms have three or four permanent suction cups, and the rest are removed. This is usually done in spring or summer, but now it can be done without problems.

Q: Most of my Texas privet has fungus. I need a strong soluble broad-spectrum fungicide that can be used in EZ-Flo fertilizer tanks. I found some on Amazon, but I'm not sure which one to buy.

Answer: Diseases in the desert are not as common as in other places with high rainfall and humidity. I even see the difference between the climate in central California and here. Our humidity is much lower.

Your Texas privet problem is probably not a disease, but is usually related to irrigation. They don't like watering every day, and they don't like being surrounded by rocks. They are very moody in irrigation and will shed their leaves in the slightest drought. But they do like to drink a certain amount of water regularly.

I would say that planting them on the lawn is your best choice, but it would be difficult for them to surround them with rocks and drip them on the south or west side of the landscape. So my intuition feels that the problem you see may be related to water.

I have seen some of your photos, and it seems that there are spacing issues, and there may also be shadow issues. Privettes in Texas don't like being in rock, if that's where they grew up.

Question: My lemon. Oranges, plums, and apricot trees stopped bearing fruit; all the leaves had fallen off, and the branches were brittle. They used to do well. I have cut the lemon tree from the bottom of the trunk because it looks dead. Is it possible for it to grow back from the bottom of the trunk?

A: In the long run, all forms of citrus are subtropical-a little more sensitive to the cold temperatures of our climate. Fruit trees such as plums, apricots, peaches, apples, and pears can cope with cold weather and are considered temperate fruit trees. In our eastern Mojave Desert climate, temperate fruit trees are more durable than tropical fruit trees, in the long run, year after year.

Question: I have three bamboos in the sky. They start to grow and bloom. Then the newly grown leaves and flowers begin to wither. In the end, I have no flowers and will eventually turn into red berries in the fall. I ended up with bare stems and branches.

A: There are two things I can think of. One, if they are close to a wall facing south or west, this exposure will generate too much heat. Secondly, I saw them surrounded by rocks. Nandina doesn't like rock and roll. So on the top of my head, I guess it might be heat (they grow better in the cooler part of the yard) and rocks. If heat is not a problem, if the soil around them is fertile, they will do better.

Question: I plan to cut down my oversized fig tree. By not removing the roots, will they remain active and produce new growth? The location is very close to my house and sidewalks, so removing the roots is very difficult (and expensive).

Answer: You can cut down fig trees and they will suck from the roots, just like oleanders. They do not suck from the roots, but they suck from the roots or what we call the crown. You can trim them back a few inches from the ground and they will grow back.

The roots will go where you watered. Trim it at any time after falling leaves, and pour it as far away from the building as possible.

Bob Morris is an expert in gardening and an emeritus professor at the University of Nevada in Las Vegas. Visit his blog on xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com. Send questions to Extremehort@aol.com.

Many ceiling fan swings can be attributed to the installation itself, rather than poor fan quality. First make sure that the box on the ceiling is close to the ceiling and does not move.

Except for the beauty or aesthetics in the landscape, non-functional lawns are not used for any other purpose. The use of lawn shows lack of creativity and underestimation of where we live.

The temperature and pressure relief valve is an extremely important component that helps to ensure the safe operation of your water heater.

The best time to plant hardy trees and shrubs is in autumn, from the end of September to mid-November.

Sales of Halloween decorations have increased in the past few years, and DIY options continue to emerge to meet the needs of families who want to make their own creepy crafts and vile decorations.

Cycad, also known as sago palm, is considered to be an ancient representative of its kind, and has hardly changed for thousands of years. It is like a pine tree, a true gymnosperm.

Since the house has many working parts, young first-time buyers should conduct a house inspection.

You can build a sandbox with wood to form the sides, but you have to reinforce the corners because they will be subject to a lot of pressure to separate. Do not use treated wood because the chemicals in this material may be harmful to children.

Lemons usually do not mature until around December. Maturity means that the sugar content increases as they mature. December and January are times when we often see citrus being destroyed by pests.

In most cases, limes are harvested green. When limes are harvested too late, they will turn yellow, deteriorate, no longer juicy and light weight.

Copyright © 2019 Las Vegas Review-Journal, Inc. | Privacy Policy| Terms of Service

Powered by WordPress.com VIP fb